Meera Subramanian
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Hold onto the light

January 26, 2026 By meerasub Leave a Comment

silver water with a black sky above

We are in stormy times, and I am not just talking about the snow, which blankets the world into chiaroscuro. White men in black are murdering peaceful protesters on the streets of America. Ten shots. At least. We are witnessing, in real time, the deliberate unraveling of a developed nation into something barbaric and backwards. I hold onto two things from the past week. One is the speech by Canada’s PM Mark Carney in Davos, who spoke “about a rupture in the world order,” and beckoned the middle powers to unite against the hegemony. He invoked the Czech dissident Václav Havel and the power that emerges when the greengrocer takes down the propaganda sign of political support that he never believed in. “The system’s power comes not from its truth, but from everyone’s willingness to perform as if it were true,” Carney said, “and its fragility comes from the same source.”

The second shard of light comes from seeing the thousands of people in the frigid streets of Minneapolis. Each one a version of the greengrocer, taking down the sign and revealing the fragility. No more. The statement from Alex Pretti’s parents rings out: “The sickening lies told about our son by the administration are reprehensible and disgusting.” They are not just taking down the sign. They are setting it on fire.

Those of us who write about the climate crisis struggle when our work is to “direct your attention toward the horizon,” as Emily Atkins so eloquently put it in her latest Heated Substack. But, she reminds us, climate change is state violence, too. I think of the “slow violence,” as Robert Nixon coined it, that takes lives far from phone cameras and newsfeeds. This slow violence is not nearly as slow as it used to be. Climate is the undercurrent as the hegemon invades and threatens Venezuela and Greenland in a grab for resources. It’s the water crisis fueling the unrest in Iran, where protesters demand, “Water, electricity, life – our basic right.” It’s the storm covering the country that could be worsened by the conditions created by human-caused climate change.

Still, a new generation is rising into adulthood. People go into the streets to fight for their children’s future, maybe more than their own. It is dark, but we need color. We need to keep looking to the horizon. We need to hold on to the belief that…

A Better World Is Possible

Colorful cover of A Better World Is Possible graphic novel

Pre-order today!

Book promotion is tough at times like this, but I’m still hoping you’ll hit the button and pre-order our graphic novel, A Better World Is Possible: Global Youth Confront the Climate Crisis, so when it comes out in a month, you can immediately place it in the hands of a young person you adore. An antidote to everything they are absorbing from the news shaping their young lives. People are saying nice things:

“As this lovely book points out, ‘we don’t have the luxury of time anymore.’ This book is an urgent, helpful, and hopeful portrait of what’s possible when young people come together to fight for a better world.”
~John Green, author of The Fault in Our Stars

“Novgorodoff’s watercolor style is absolutely perfect for this topic, showcasing both the power of visual comics metaphors and the beauty of the natural world.”
~Booklist, starred review

“A heart-warming and planet-cooling book about how change happens–anyone reading this will be much better prepared to help in the fight for the planet’s future.”
~Bill McKibben, author of Here Comes the Sun

When does the idea of a book begin? Artist Danica Novgorodoff began thinking about a graphic novel for young adults about climate change many years ago. I joined her in 2020, when I reconnected with Danica at a book event of our mutual friend, Jeff Sharlet, on the eve of the pandemic shutting down world, and we decided to team up. But in some ways, seeds in my mind were planted lifetimes ago, maybe at the base of the maple tree in my front yard as a kid, or in the duff of Oregon’s old-growth forests, or on the streets of Seattle during the 1999 WTO protests.

The response to crisis is to gather. Find others. “We take care of each other,” as an elder in Alakanuk, Alaska told Emily Raboteau. Collaborating with Danica over the past handful of years and immersing myself in the stories of the four climate youth we feature in the book—Jamie Margolin, Xiye Bastida, Shiv Soin and Rebeca Sabnam—has kept the light on for me, added color to my concept of a future.

cover of rrrrl girlz zine

The process brought back the joy I felt when I did a zine with girlfriends years ago, back in Oregon, before the internet changed everything. When our collective of “city babes and country chicks with shit on their minds” stayed up late with pens and scissors and magazine clippings from the 1940s and a commandeered copy machine to be creative and map out the world we wanted to live in.

tulips blooming inside, a snowy landscape beyond the window

In these dark times, keep fighting the powers that be, find the slivers of light and bursts of color, gather with your comrades, and make the world you want to inhabit.

Journalists & writer friends, take note…

  • Come study with me. I have the great good fortune of going to Sewanee, Tennessee each summer to teach creative nonfiction for the School of Letters MFA program. The setting is stunning, and the community that forms when you bring together talented faculty and just the right number of students creates a certain alchemy where good writing emerges. Feel free to DM me or director Justin Taylor to learn more. Rolling application.
  • Mid-career journalists: applications now being accepted for the University of Colorado Ted Scripps Fellowship. You can spend a year in stunning Boulder, taking classes to deepen your understanding of environmental issues. Oh, also, get paid $80,000. I’m on the Advisory Board and this is truly an amazing opportunity. Deadline: March 1
  • Do you have an ambitious reporting project about a story that uncovers the truths of the human condition? Apply now for the Matthew Power Literary Reporting Award, honoring my ole friend and Brooklyn housemate Matt, who was as delightfully obsessed with the plants in the backyard as the stories of every person he met on assignment. I still miss him dearly. {Here’s a new Atlantic story from past award winner Shayla Love} Deadline February 22
  • The Institute for Independent Journalists, founded by former Knight Science Journalism Project Fellow Katherine Lewis, is having its 2026 Freelance Journalism Conference March 5-6, a “conference for independent journalists and creators to find community and build thriving businesses.”
  • Introducing the Science Reporting Navigator from the good folks at The Open Notebook. Believing “every story is a science story,” they partnered with Relief Applications and designed a resource to help reporters who might not always be on the science beat get quickly informed. Here you can find dozens of short lessons within ten topics, such as “how to find scientific sources,” “how to navigate scientific data,” and “how to critically evaluate claims.”
  • I’ll be at two powerhouse journalism conferences this spring. Hope to see you at Boston University’s The Power of Narrative Conference (March 27-28) and/or the Society of Environmental Journalists Annual Conference in Chicago (April 15-18)

And from the Department of Good News…

  • A Better World Is Possible is #1 on Amazon in the New Releases in Teen & Young Adult Environmental Conservation & Protection. Keep those pre-orders coming to help feed the algorithmic beast (ya know, in the good way), but I encourage you to do it from your local bookshop. And give me a shout if you’d like an advance copy for review. Our spring book tour is taking shape so perhaps we’ll see on the road as the flowers emerge. More on that soon.
  • Metcalf Institute at University of Rhode Island is an incredible science communication training center. I’ve benefitted from multiple fellowships that made me a better journalist. Honored to be featured as they kick off their alumni newsletter.

I’m reading/watching…

  • While this administration continues its assault on climate action alongside its attack on citizens, thanks to Isabella Kaminski at the Guardian to remind us that there were many legal climate wins around the globe.
  • To balance most of my days, which revolve around the above, escaping into a novel is requisite. I thoroughly enjoyed the messages of loss, letting go, and transformation in Emily Habeck’s debut novel, Shark Heart. It’s a bittersweet love story that emerges when a newlywed couple faces a diagnosis: the husband is turning into a great white shark. Also, the wife makes friends with a woman pregnant with twin birds.
  • I saw the magnificent documentary Folktales at the Woods Hole about a traditional “folk school” in the Arctic wilds of Norway. The relationship between the struggling kids, their teachers and the sled dogs is breathtaking. It’s the visual version of Blair Braverman’s excellent memoir, Welcome to the Goddamn Ice Cube.

Coda…

underwater images of remoras attached to a whale

With things on land being dire these days, I have been holding on to images of water during meditations (and three-in-the-morning-try-to-get-back-to-sleep moments). So I found this video of remoras enchanting, hypnotic. Imaging clinging, (how?!), steadfast, to the back of a humpback whale, and then—just at the moment she is about to breach—releasing yourself, racing along ‘til she returns to the water. Then, reattaching. Like skipping rope. Underwater. At speed. There’s a metaphor there, of holding on, of letting go, and holding on again. Steadfast.

Stay warm, friends. Stay safe.

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Filed Under: A Better World Is Possible, climate change, dissent, News, peregrinations, Substack

On the Move: Bilbao to Tarifa, in pursuit of good energy

March 15, 2025 By meerasub Leave a Comment

man bent over paints with a wash of color on wall behind him.

Muralist at work, Bilbao. Photo by Meera Subramanian.

{Latest Substack}

Peregrinations are underway. I’m more than two months into my FRONTIERS fellowship, the first half of which was spent in Bilbao at the Basque Center or Climate (BC3) Change. I came here with the question: can renewable energy projects be built in a way that’s better for biodiversity, people, and place?

It’s complicated.

But like the muralist I caught mid-stream as he transformed a construction blind into a work of art, it takes layers of paint, layers of understanding. I’m thankful for the FRONTIERS grant to have the time to keep digging. The researchers at BC3 helped give me a crash course in understanding the renewable energy landscape, and I’ve been busy conducting dozens of interviews, in Spanish and English, with BC3 staff as well as people all over Spain and in France. They’ve included researchers in agrivoltaics, ornithology and environmental conflict; organizations such as Greenpeace, Eudemon and Renewable Energy Foundation; political representatives such as mayors of small towns with renewable energy projects; reps from renewable energy companies; and many others.

When I arrived in Spain, Biden was still president. A week later, he wasn’t. Nowhere is far enough away from the new president’s wrath. BC3 researchers lost US partners when funding was frozen. A cousin lost his job in Bangkok related to USAID. A friend lost a year’s worth of climate work on New Jersey organic farms. A niece’s new position at NOAA as a fledging applied ecologist feels tenuous. But also, my stepdaughter, who is an environmental lawyer for Earthjustice, was part of the team that just sued Trump and the USDA to release IRA funds that were contractually promised and are now frozen. The lawsuits against the administration are piling up.

Here in Europe, the mood is jittery. (Also, I am fielding the repeated baffled question/accusation: how could you Americans have voted him in … again?!) I attended The Climate Agenda in the New European Legislature and Its Impact in the Basque Country, an event in Bilbao on January 31, when the wrecking ball was taking its first wild swings. Panelists included local politicians and journalists from other parts of Europe, offering a lens into the dynamics and tensions around renewable energy, especially in the wake of the inauguration of Donald Trump. Europe is readying itself for … well, just about anything. There is the tension between the desperate need to ramp up the clean energy transition to achieve energy independence butting against the need to divert resources to build war chests. Bolstering nuclear power keeps coming up. So does resistance:

graffiti in Basque Country, Spain

Spotted on a wall in San Sebastian, a play on an anti-nukes image, “Nuclear power? No thanks,” in Basque. Photo by Meera Subramanian.

Also spotted at a news stand:

Photos by Meera Subramanian.

But I could only do so much from Bilbao. I’m spending the second half of my time here reporting, going to see solar and wind farms that are trying to do things better for birds and farmers and towns. Now, I write from Tarifa, the southernmost tip of Spain, a windy passage where Europe meets Africa, the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea. It is difficult to concentrate on the screen, because I’ve come here to look at the sky, the bird migration just beginning. Wind turbines spin behind me up the hillsides of Spain, as well as across the waters of the Strait of Gibraltar, atop Morocco’s mountains. It’s a slalom course for migrating birds, but I’m here to see the efforts to lessen the impact.

Tarifa, Spain, looking across the Strait of Gibraltar to Morocco

Tarifa, Spain, looking across the Strait of Gibraltar to Morocco. Photo by Meera Subramanian.

I am thankful for a moment of sun. Andalucia, like most of Spain, has been under a deluge of rain. So much that I couldn’t make it to some of the solar farms on my itinerary, so mired they were in mud. The rain is good, in some ways, needed to alleviate a drought, but it’s also coming too quick, too much, rivers rising. Causing a different type of jitters, with the Valencia floods that killed hundreds last fall still in close memory. I stopped in a cafe for a quick coffee and had to step over the barrier constructed to keep out the rain. It wasn’t enough. The man who passed me a steaming cafe con leche said that, a week and half ago, the place was filled with a half-meter of water. Too early to attribute these weeks of rain to climate change, but it fits the pattern of more extreme weather. More drought, followed by heavier, more intense rains.

man outside, and lower part of doorway blocked.

Blocked threshold to keep rain out. Photo by Meera Subramanian.

One can only hope that the lush green of this wet spring’s growth is not fuel for wildfires of the future. And that the stories I’m finding offer models that can be implemented—quick! now! yesterday!—to get off fossil fuels and onto clean energy sources in a way that doesn’t cause greater harm or collateral damage. Stay posted for more stories to come. 

Journalists & writer friends, take note…

  • Orion Environmental Writers Workshop Join a community of writers, improve your craft, and reimagine how you think about nature. March 15 (today!) for early bird tuition rate.
  • Covering Climate Now is offering a free training program aimed at helping newsrooms grow their audiences by telling the climate story better. Check out trainings on offer: Climate Journalism Training Catalog.
  • The Sharon Begley Science Reporting Award is open for entries. Deadline: April 30.
  • FRONTIERS open call for round three, specifically for early-career journalists Deadline: May 6, 17:00 (CEST).
  • Dart Center forJournalism and Trauma, the C.A.R.E.S. (Connecting Audiences, Reporters, Emotions, and Sources) Media Initiative is conducting research to better understand the resources that journalists on the climate/environment beat need to do their work. Take a moment to do this survey.
  • Trying to keep track of the Trump administration’s dismantling of climate regulations? Options include: “A Running Tally of Trump’s Climate Impacts” from Drilled, and the Climate Backtracker from the Sabin Center for Climate Change Law at the Columbia Law School.
  • NYU Stern Climate Economics Journalism Fellowship will bring a group of journalists to NYU Stern’s Greenwich Village campus, September 18–19, 2025, to learn from globally recognized experts in the emerging field of climate economics. Open to new and experienced journalists (staffers and freelancers) covering the interface between climate and the economy. Here are details and application.

And from the Department of Good News…

illustration of climate march

Illustration by Danica Novgorodoff

  • A Better World Is Possible, a nonfiction YA graphic novel I’ve been working on with the talented illustrator Danica Novgorodoff is working its way to publication (First Second, 2026). It reveals the pressing danger of the climate crisis through the stories of four youth climate activists who demonstrate the potential of teen power. I’m excited to announce that I received a Grant for Creative Individuals from the Mass Cultural Council that I’ll be putting towards helping this book find its way into the world. THANKS, MCC!
  • I received the Staige D. Blackford Prize for Nonfiction for my piece about the decision to donate a kidney, published in the Virginia Quarterly Review last fall. This feels deeply full circle; VQR was so generous to honor my piece about India’s vultures with this prize back in 2011. I was only a few years out of grad school, I hadn’t done any truly long-form, and VQR editor Ted Genoways took a chance on me. When that prize happened, it transformed the trajectory of my struggling freelance life. Truly. To receive the prize again, after all these years, for this piece that felt so risky in a completely different way, is the deepest of honors. Thanks to editor Paul Reyes and the whole VQR team.
  • I’m also am a True Story Award finalist, for my New Yorker piece, Consider the Vulture.
  • And I’ll be back in the US soon, for better or worse, in time to give a talk about South Asian vultures—their monumental decline and the efforts to bring them back—for the Brookline Bird Club, April 25, at the Harvard Geological Lecture Hall. In person and on Zoom. More details to come.

I’m reading…

  • To keep my reading mind in Spain, there’s been Ben Lerner’s Leaving Atocha Station, which exquisitely captured the hungry creative young mind as he makes an infinite number of poor decisions, and I’m midway through Carlos Ruiz Zafón’s Shadow of the Wind.
  • I listened to The Buried Giant, by Kazuo Ishiguro, at the recommendation of my (former) Orion editor, Sumanth Prabhaker. As our own country tumbles towards civil war (slowly, but quickening, according to Jeff Sharlet), I found this exploration of memory and forgetting—when is it necessary to wipe one’s mind clean in order to live in peace?—haunting. And, in spite of there being dragons and knight errants, it reminded me of similar themes explored in Severance, which I am totally hooked on.
  • I got an early look at Sadie Babits’ forthcoming Hot Takes: Every Journalist’s Guide to Covering Climate Change (Island Press). I had the pleasure of serving with Sadie on the SEJ Board, and she followed me as president. Now, she’s the lead climate editor at NPR. Get this book on your radar!
  • Erica Berry’s book Wolfish was a brilliant exploration of fear and wildness, and her new piece, “The Fault of Time,” in Emergence, is equally captivating. Here’s her Substack.
  • I found “The End of Children” by Gideon Lewis-Kraus in The New Yorker fascinating and as troubling as it was intended to be. It explored so many facets of the transformation underway, but I also wanted more about the infertility that may be linked to environmental factors, and also the hesitancy I have heard many younger people express about bringing children into a world increasingly ravaged by climate change and other environmental disasters. Still very much worth a read.
  • And I’ll wait to buy Sewanee School of Letter’s colleague Tiana Clark’s new book of prose poems, Scorched Earth, in person from her this summer, but I had the pleasure of hearing her read some her work in the past. You don’t have to to wait. Available at all the good places (and the bad places, too) where you can buy books.

I leave you with this, pure joy and delight of a song sung in public, crammed in a narrow alley of Old Town, just last night. The rains cancelled Carnaval in Tarifa last week, but they’re happening this weekend. The town is all dressed up. People don themed costumes with their friends and families that are about not about your single individual uniqueness, but about what you can create in concert with your community. I couldn’t catch all the lyrics of this long song, but it seemed a ballad, each stanza ending with a punchline that made the crowd laugh and led to the next round of the story. I’ll have bum-bum-bum-bum-bum running through my head for days, making me smile each time. Hope it’s contagious.

{For video go to Substack}

Be well, friends. Be fierce. Be ready.

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Filed Under: awards, climate change, drought, journalism, News, peregrinations, Substack, travels

Out of Order

February 4, 2025 By meerasub Leave a Comment

graffiti of girl being lifted by heart balloons

{latest Substack…}

Sentiments can be lost in translation, but also found. I’m out of the US but its mess spreads across the globe like its carbon emissions. The absolute least of it is was sitting in a cafe eating tortilla española and cringing as our new old president declared Spain is a BRICS nation (it isn’t). The most of it is hearing from friends and family about direct impacts: jobs lost, projects frozen, students with questionable immigration status disappeared. Last week, I stood with an Austrian woman and when the subject of our state of affairs came up, both of us speechless about the chaos the 47th has unleashed in a baker’s dozen worth of days, she said, of the country or the man, I’m not sure, that it’s “out of order.”

“Yes, yes! That’s the perfect phrase,” I exclaimed. “I’m going to use that.” And so here we are.

As I walked home afterwards, a woman alone, after midnight, feeling totally safe on the streets of Bilbao even as I walked through a group of a dozen men (oh, the sweet relief of not having cortisol continually coursing through one’s body; consider the whales; consider immigrants now being rounded up), I tumbled the phrase “out of order” around in mind. Out of order can mean broken, nonfunctional. It can indicate an experience of tumult and bedlam. It can also mean when someone steps of out of line, and acts in ways that are socially, ethically, morally improper. With the Austrian woman’s three words, she’d spoken a triple entendre.

To process this moment, I’m alternating between Jeff Sharlet’s Scenes from a Slow Civil War and Katharine Hayhoe’s Talking Climate, somehow finding solace in simultaneously recognizing how bad things are and how good they could be. Be? Maybe? Ayana Elizabeth Johnson reminds us to act locally. My form of protest is to dig deeper into my FRONTIERS fellowship work based at BC3, trying to understand all the dynamics at play in the efforts to shift our energy systems to cleaner forms of wind and solar, something that will continue to happen regardless of the white man in the White House. It’s led me to encouraging conversations about agrivoltaics in France and energy companies that build in community funds voluntarily, but also to a recurring and troubling story of conflict—a chasm between the rural and urban populations of the world—identical to what I’ve experienced in America, especially when I reported on conservative perceptions of climate change for Inside Climate News. I also attended an event, La Agenda Climática en La Nueva Legislatura Europa y su Impacto en Euskadi, The Climate Agenda in the New European Legislature and its impact in Basque Country. And we were right back to the impacts of the global shift to the far right. A sense of nervousness, geopolitics shaky, and the hope that energy independence in the form of renewables can be a part of regional security strategies.

panel discussion on climate and politics

Sweet dreams & flying machines…

There was also, last week, the horror over DC skies. Someone I love deeply and dearly has lost someone they love deeply and dearly in the unspeakable plane crash that ended in the Potomoc. She asked me for hard-won advice, knowing I have lost friends, this one, and this one, and others. Words fail, but I say something about letting the grief come when it will, to not fight it, to let it wash over you when it appears urgent and unexpected, even months, years, down the road of recovery. No, not recovery. Something else. Love and loss burnished into your being. But now the grief is immediate, and the only thing to do is take the unbidden reminder that life is short, precious. Love big. Hold loved ones close. Tell them. This is the other way we can act locally, in our most intimate lives.

Keep notice…

As I’m exploring this new place, I’m searching for slivers of joy amid all this grief and allowing myself moments to recognize them. I found one, as the sun broke through the relentless clouds of Bilbao, of the news, on Friday afternoon, when I finally made it up Etxebarri Parkea. Once a factory site that has been transformed into a park overlooking the city, its tall smokestack is a reminder of what once was. There was a pond created to support birds and critters, and a skate park for humans to play.

When I walked by the skate park, I noticed two men on skateboards, then I noticed that one was much, much older than the other. I was intrigued. Circled around the park and returned to watch him as he made a smooth steady run across the shallow end. Then, as the younger skater was leaving, the older one recruited him to help him summit the last lip of his run. “Come help me,” he said. “Stand here, with one foot here and the other there, and then when I come up, take my hand.” The young man did exactly as told. They tried it 5-6 times, and the older man never quite made it. Except that, well, he’s already made it, right?

I took a picture of them both, then handed my phone to Nico, the 26-year-old German so he can forward it to himself. And Juanjo is telling us he’s famous. “Google me!” he instructed, and indeed there he is on YouTube and TikTok. He is 87 years old, older than ages of the young skater and me, combined. Some lives are unfairly cut short. Others are long, and embraced by the bodies that contain them.

Journalists & writers friends, take note…

  • For rising juniors and seniors pursuing journalism, consider applying to the Opening Doors, a new initiative aimed at increasing diversity in public media newsrooms. The two-year program will provide skills training, mentorship, and paid internships for ten BIPOC journalism students, with a focus on science, health, and economics reporting. Apply here.
  • The Uproot Project Fellowship offers funding to seven journalists to pursue reporting projects over the course of a year. Fellows will receive up to $2,000 to cover travel and other reporting expenses for their fellowship project. Learn more about the Uproot Project Fellowship and find this year’s application here. Deadline: 11:59pm on March 1, 2025
  • And to connect with poets who are using their art to face the climate crisis, check out the Hellbender Gathering of Poets, run by my friend and Sewanee colleague Nickole Brown. They’re gearing up for a fall gathering and having inspiring events along the way.
  • The Matthew Power Literary Reporting Award is a grant of $12,500 to support the work of a promising early-career nonfiction writer on a story that uncovers truths about the human condition. Matt was one of those dear friends we lost way too early. Deadline: Feb. 19

Take care, friends. Take care of each other.

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Filed Under: climate change, peregrinations, photography, Substack, travels Tagged With: BC3, Bilbao, death, FRONTIERS, grief, politics, skateboarding, Spain

Step by Step

January 20, 2025 By meerasub Leave a Comment

reflections of buildings and a staircase that descends into the River Nervión in Bilbao, Spain
stairs descend into the Río Nervión, Bilbao, Spain

{latest Substack…}

I’ve crossed a border into Spain, and we’re all crossing tipping-point thresholds, too many to count. We’ve passed into 2025, already a quarter into this no-longer-new century of this still-quite-young millennium, and it took mere weeks before wildfires were consuming entire communities in southern California and floods making people flee their homes in Malaysia. Tomorrow, we pass into a new American administration that will make these stories even more frequent as we catapult into a future that feels all too tenuous. Still, still, I repeat like a mantra, it’s not too late, it’s not too late. See Katharine Hayhoe’s great recap of 2024 with lots of good actionable information to carry with you into the new year. She also offered a reminder that although we did indeed pass an entire year having crossed the threshold into a world 1.5 degrees Celsius warmer than pre-industrial times, we’re still not there in terms of the ten-year average that will mark our true failure to reach the goals set at the Paris Climate Accords. If thinking about the future feels daunting, I get it. Britt Wray has changed her Substack’s name from Gen Dread to Unthinkable, also the name of a new climate-mental health platform that has a host of resources for taking care of yourself. Check them out and repeat after me, it’s not too late, it’s not late…

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Filed Under: climate change, peregrinations, Substack Tagged With: Basque Center for Climate Change, BC3, Bilbao, biodiversity, climate change, FRONTIERS, renewable energy

eARTh & España

December 16, 2024 By meerasub Leave a Comment

watercolor by meera subramanian

{Latest Substack}

Art has been my solace and fuel since the election. There was the antiquarian book show, where we witnessed the longevity of the written word. And a Georgia O’Keefe – Charles Moore exhibition at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. O’Keefe, whose work I’ve loved since I was a child, was “most interested in the holes in the bones—what I saw through them—particularly the blue from holding them up against the sky…they were most wonderful against the Blue—that Blue that will always be there as it is now after all man’s destruction is finished.” A perfect thought for this particular moment of beauty and terror.

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Filed Under: journalism, peregrinations, Substack Tagged With: Art, Basque Center for Climate Change, BC3, Boston, Charles Moore, Elizabeth Rush, Emily Raboteau, FRONTIERS, Georgia O'Keefe, Helen Macdonald, J. Drew Lanham, Off Assignment, teaching, writing

a measure of gratitude

November 13, 2024 By meerasub Leave a Comment

Barczyk
illustration by Hanna Barczyk for VQR

Not all stories need to be told. I held on to one closely since 2018 and then, last year, something shifted. Maybe it was hitting a five-year mark. Maybe it was being immersed in the writerly world of Sewanee School of Letters, where most summers I teach creative nonfiction atop the verdant Southern Cumberland Plateau in eastern Tennessee, drowned in cicada song. In the classroom, I was asking my students to take risks, to be brave, to put blood on the page. Could I?

And so I began to pull from journals and letters, audio recordings and pictures. All to track the arc of a friendship that began, well, here’s how the piece that emerged begins:

We were two women on either side of thirty throwing punches at one another’s faces in a concrete stairwell abuzz with florescent light. Our instructor showed us how to make a fist (thumbs on the outside), take aim, and put our weight into the shot. I threw punches at her first. She was younger than I was by a handful of years and just as racially ambiguous. Then it was her turn, and I jerked my head to the side to dodge impact, heard the whoosh of fist through air. Fight Club for girls. New York University. Coles Rec Center, 2004. Fourteen years before the surgery.

“A Measure of Gratitude,” just published in the fall issue of the Virginia Quarterly Review, is about the power of female friendships and the burden of gratitude. It’s about sickness and health. The prospect of dying and the act of living. It’s about seeking and hoping and letting go and finding. There is cancer, the swapping of body parts, Peter Singer, the Bhagavad Gita, and bluefish, cooked up with cracker crumbs as new love blooms.

What would you sacrifice for a friendship? This Peregrinations post is public so feel free to share it.

And in some strange way, it’s about how to respond to events like what happened last week at the American ballot box and what will happen in the years to come. How unraveling on the outside can sometimes lead to clarity within. Another snippet from the piece:

Michael waited for my answer. I considered my deepening cynicism, my daily grief. We had a madman scheming in the White House. People were scaling up their assaults—on fellow humans, other species, entire ecosystems, the planet. The world I loved was aflame and the fire spreading. I looked at Michael. “I want to see more good in the world,” I heard myself telling him, “so why not do something…good?” It suddenly seemed achingly simple.

I hope you’ll make a nice cup of tea or pour a glass of wine, put your phone into silent mode, and take the time to read “A Measure of Gratitude.” Maybe afterwards, you’ll decide to dance, or kiss someone, or call up an old friend.

Thanks for reading Peregrinations! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

It was a pleasure and honor to once again work with the brilliant editor Paul Reyes at VQR, an ad-free, just-shy-of-a-century-old, award-winning literary magazine that I hope you’ll consider subscribing to so it may exist for another ninety-nine years. And the commissioned illustration by artist Hanna Barczyk is just perfect.

Not all stories need to be told. But, taking a deep breath, I’m glad this one is finally out there.

thanks for reading,

~meera

{Subscribe to my Substack for more of this}

Filed Under: essays, journalism, memoir, peregrinations, Substack Tagged With: applied philosophy, cancer, female friendship, friendship, kidney donation, kidneys, love, organ, organ donation, transplant, writing life

the art of being present

November 13, 2024 By meerasub Leave a Comment

panorama of Colorado River with two rafts in view

by Meera Subramanian

Three rounds in the laundry and there’s still sand in my socks. I like the grit that remains. It’s been over a week since we took out from a bucket list rafting trip down the Colorado River. I adventured there with my husband and his eldest, 226 miles of the river’s reach, from Lee’s Ferry to Diamond Creek, traveling into the depths of what this great earth holds, a truly Grand Canyon.

New layers of rock revealed themselves to us each day as our seven boats moved downstream. Six oar boats and one paddle boat. Some of us slipped into kayaks at times. Us twenty guests in a continual rotation between boats, sometimes paddling, deep strokes into deep green cold water, or relaxing through some stretches, or holding on for dear life as we crashed through the rapids of Granite, Horn, Lava Falls. We pulled onto beaches for hikes into slot canyons, or to go swimming in the Little Colorado River, a tributary with otherworldly pastel blue waters. We passed through sacred lands. All of it felt sacred. I kept feeling like I needed to ask permission. I did, and felt (hope) it was granted. Navajo, Havasupai, Hualapai. And something deeper and more eternal, before even those people arrived, when this place was sea, inhabited by sponges, crinoids, brachiopods, lava flowing and transforming, land masses moving.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: drought, peregrinations, Substack, travels Tagged With: geology, Grand Canyon, river rafting, rivers, silence, tech

baby sea turtle release!

January 17, 2024 By meerasub Leave a Comment

two baby sea turtles on the sand

by Meera Subramanian

S. AND I SIT ON A LOG on a San Pancho beach of western Mexico’s Nayarit coast, watching. Soon, we’ve been told, there will be a release of sea turtles, but we don’t know quite where, so we observe the movement of humans on the beach—couples in beach chairs; groups of young, tattooed surfers smoking cigarettes and weed; a woman reading a book. An older man races by in a dune buggy with a woman beside him, and then returns a moment later without her, rousing a trio of short-legged mutts to chase after him, barking and chomping at the tires. Where he has left the woman, a coalescing is under way, and we move toward it.

There we find Odette Brunel, a Mexican ecologist with long brown hair and reading glasses looped around her neck, holding a tan plastic bin. A hundred tiny turtles writhe within. They’re only a few inches long, dark flippers and dark shells barely containing an eager energy. Nearby, an eleven-year-old named Ananda holds another bin with more. A growing crowd crane their necks to look in. Children gather. Parents gather. Cell phone cameras, including mine, are at the ready.

Odette goes hoarse explaining anything she can to anyone who will listen, in English and Spanish. Her soft voice stretches over the sound of island music blaring from a nearby hotel that reaches its square body onto the sand of the beach.

“We call this tortuga golfina. It’s the smallest of the sea turtles that come here.”

…

Read the rest of the story, published in Orion, about witnessing the dangerous, crucial volunteer work of protecting and releasing baby olive ridley sea turtles in Mexico, here. 

And here’s a rough-cut video I made of the evening:

Filed Under: climate change, journalism, peregrinations, photography, plastics, travels, video Tagged With: Mexico, Orion, Project Tortuga, sea turtle, turtle

life large & small in Sewanee

July 9, 2017 By meerasub 2 Comments

This is my last Sunday in Sewanee. I fell asleep to the deafening sound of cicadas, a thrumming from the upper branches of the trees that surround the house. In spite of stories of escaped convicts, I can’t help but keep the sliding doors open so I can hear the sound. The land is alive with the cacophony. Bring it on. The more there is, the merrier I am. It was the brilliance behind Rachel Carson’s book title. Two words. No rambling subtitle telling all. Just two words, three syllables, that spoke volumes: Silent Spring. Give me noise from the natural world. Remind me, unceasingly, that there is life. Keep the silence at bay.

I’ve just finished reading [Read more…]

Filed Under: just another day, peregrinations, photography, travels Tagged With: Arli Hochschild, hawk, Helen Macdonald, James Agee, mushroom, Sewanee, silence Rachel Carson, South, Tennessee, USA, wildlife

perimeter perambulations

June 8, 2017 By meerasub 1 Comment

I always try to deny dawn. She slips under my eyelids and I reach for my eye mask, craving one more hour of unconsciousness. But I hear birds. Knew the light was illuminating the unexplored forest behind the house I now find myself living in. Discovered myself pulled up and into clothes warm enough for the cool morning, lacing up my hiking shoes before I quite realized it. My eyes don’t read so well in the morning anymore, but before I walk out the door, I squint at the map for the Perimeter Trail that loops around Sewanee, hugging the edge of the Cumberland Plateau, and figure it should be due west of the house. Why walk along the lanes to find a proper entrance? I tuck my pants into my socks (the default fashion for us in Cape Cod’s tick-infested landscape. Are they here or am I liberated?) and cross the bit of backyard grass and enter the woods. Ten steps in, I flush a herd of white-tailed deer twenty strong, their cotton-burst butts bounding down the hill of the small valley, then up the other side. A hundred feet in and I find a brook I can step across with one stride. Twenty more paces and I’m on the trail. I take a right and go. It’s good to be back in church.

Just before I left Knight Science Journalism fellowship up in Cambridge, Maura O’Connor spoke to us about her new book on wayfinding. She explained the wonders of the hippocampus, how it grows when we challenge it by getting lost and then finding ourselves. I have not (blindly) used a GPS since then. I find a map, preferably on paper, and study it til I can put my finger on the spot where I am. I have loved to do this, always. It felt like a reward when the last page of a test in third grade was a map, the legend reliably there in the corner, a gift of a key that would unlock the mysteries some mapmaker made.Here on the edge of the plateau, there is the added orientation ease of heading towards the almost horizon that appears between the boles of upright trees, that indicates the drop-off of slope and the potential payoff of views. It’s why I went right. But I am distracted. A russula mushroom there in the duff. A widow-maker tree defying gravity until her uprooted roots decide to give out completely. Rounding a bend and finding myself below a sandstone overhang like a chiseled layer cake of rock, seeps staining spots dark, the smell of iron in the air. Did I gasp? I think I gasped. At a fork I go left, each rock outcropping greater than the last. I scramble up a rock to pass through a tunnel of stone and then the sound of water pulls me forward until I’m below the spray of Bridal Veil Falls, oxygenated, awake. [update: that wasn’t Bridal Veil, I discover later. Just some unnamed cascade. Just as lovely, if not as spectacular.]

How many landscapes can one love? How many humans? How many creatures, great and small? Imagine an infinite number and you are correct.

#Sewanee #hiking #waterfall #Tennessee @univofthesouth #schoolofletters #PerimeterTrail #getoutofbed

Filed Under: just another day, peregrinations, travels Tagged With: hiking, Nature, School of Letters, Sewanee, Tennessee, waterfall

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